Ravello: Seigli del Dei

Seeing familiar plants in their native habitats is always a thrill. Along the Seigli del Dei (the Path of the Gods), consisting of shepherd’s paths turned hiking trail, we saw not only spectacular views of the Amalfi Coast towards Capri and the sheer limestone cliffs of the coastal mountains, but also the natural chapparal vegetation, protected from excessive disturbance because of steepness.

A early Crocus had just opened.

The trail runs between Bomerano and Positano, in a traditional route, hugging the cliffs and presenting quite a challenge to anyone nervous around heights. The dropoff was distinctly dramatic in spots – a long way down to the sea; fortunately, the trail was fairly wide.

We saw rosemary, santolina, Artemisia, mints, and a small thyme, along with what looked like broom (Cytisus) interspersed with steep rocky slopes. Pockets of oak and alder woodland, with umbrella pine, ash, and a smattering of other things (including a blueberry relative (in the Ericaceae) that we remembered from the Garden as Strawberry Bush, with fleshy red fruits and a Rhus look-a-like, something similar to Scabiosa, and lots of sweet alyssum.

Yesterday, a patch of Arisaema (Jack in the Pulpit) on one of the ledges above the cliff-side path where we were walking caught my eye. It was in full flower.

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Italian chicory & the Almafi Coast

We saw Sea Kale (Crambe maritima) along the coastal paths today, at least I think it was sea kale. A vegetable that I've seen only in Thomas Jefferson's vegetable garden at Monticello and in Old Salem, NC, it's a European native that looks like a very large leafy kale.

Of equal interest has been all the varieties of Italian chicory. I grow several (the groundhogs like them), and their bitter flavor makes an agreeable counterpoint to blander greens.

Bundles were displayed at a fruit and vegetable market in an Amalfi Coast town (Vietri del Mare); the grocer laughed when she saw my gardening companion taking a photo.

I'd look quite at home strolling here if it wasn't for my Keens!

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Amalfi lemons and vineyards

Towards the southern end of the Amalfi Coast, near Ravello, the inland valleys are broader, even though still mountainous.

This slope, between Ravello and Scala, had large areas of wine grapes, the leaves yellow now.

Amalfi lemons, pointed, sweet and with thick skins, are protected by elaborate coverings from being marred by inclement frost, birds, and whatever else might affect them.

On an inland loop, we went through an agricultural area around the village of Tramonti.

Noticing the coppiced groves, we were interested to find that they were European chestnuts, clearly intensively managed for nuts. Our American chestnuts are virtually gone now, because of chestnut blight, but Chinese chestnuts have similar spiny husks.

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Crops on the Amali Coast

Even along the fabled Amalfi Coast, there is still food being grown. Traditional specialty crops, to be sure - the ancient terraces largely support olives and lemons, with vegetables grown occasionally. But it was remarkable to us to see this even in a heavily touristed area; I imagine that the land has been protected in some fashion, to remain agricultural in such a visited area.

In December, the tourist traffic is light indeed, but there's still only enough parking for locals, and we can only imagine the chaos that occurs in summer.

The Amalfi Coast IS beautiful; it's certainly the equal of Highway 1 north of San Francisco, or the area near Carmel, CA, always mentioned in terms of beautiful coastal drives. The Gaspe Peninsula in Quebec is also spectacular, but the Amali Coast is living up to our expectations, even in the winter!

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